2011.03.11 14:46
I remember where I was. I was teaching when that familiar rumbling began. Living in Japan, it’s something one gets used to, and in many cases one just stops for a moment, gauges the rocking, then continues what they were doing. But in this case, I heard the rumbling first for a second, then the building started to shake. Violently. The first thing I did was say, “Let’s go, NOW!” and the students were immediately going down the stairs quietly towards the foyer. Countless earthquake drills make this reaction automatic.
However, as I was following the students down the stairs, it was hard not to notice that the shaking hasn’t died down after a few seconds like it always does, but increased. I could hear things falling in the room we just left. The rumbling was much louder. There was something different about this time.
In the foyer, the students started putting their shoes on. I opened the door. “No shoes,” I yelled, “Get out quick!” The students obeyed, and we all ran into the parking lot in our socks and huddled in a circle. The ground seemed to roll under our feet like we were walking on something floating on water.
The next few minutes were the longest of my life. I suddenly became aware that our small parking lot was surrounded by a high concrete wall. Utility poles, also concrete, were swaying around us. Above the rumbling I could hear screams, sirens, klaxons. My students stayed quiet. I couldn’t quite help but think this was how I was going to die, crushed to death under concrete.
After a few painful minutes, the rumbling subsided and I felt the ground stop moving under us. It became oddly silent for a moment, then the sirens and klaxons began wailing again. The earthquake was over, but our lives were about to change.
We stayed outside for a while. I went back alone to get my cell phone, to call the boss to see what I should do. The damage seemed minimal, just some books and flashcards knocked over. The phone was out of service, so I figured I had to wing it for a while. The students came back in but there was a very strong aftershock, so we returned outside and waited for their parents to pick them up.
I remained at the school (i was working alone there) and waited for students. Only two of fifteen showed up, which was kind of unsurprising. I stuck it out to the end. During this time, the phones were out of order, so there was nothing other to do than wait. After class, I headed to the train station.
The trains were not moving. The station manager did not know for how long this would be a problem. “You’d better walk,” he said. I thought he was joking as I lived forty kilometers from home. He wasn’t.
I was determined not to walk forty kilometers in the cold. Instead, I walked to the nearest major station. This was an hour walk. As I was walking towards the station, there were waves upon waves of people on the road walking from the direction of Tokyo. Yes, people were walking. Were all methods of transportation knocked off this way?
I went into a convenience store on the way. To my surprise it was literally picked clean of sandwiches, onigiri, and bentos. I got a chocolate bar and continued on my way. Other convenience stores on the route were also sold out of food.
When I reached the major station an hour later, the trains were not only not running, but the shutters were closed, something I had never seen before. Hundreds of people waited in line for taxis. I went in line myself, but after a half hour of waiting and not seeing one taxi pull up, I got discouraged and looked for other methods of transportation.
There was a local bus that would get me about fifteen kilometers closer to home. I got on it hoping that wherever I found myself I would also find other options. At about nine p.m., I found myself getting off the bus at its terminus, a little closer to home but still far off. The trains were still closed, and there were no connecting buses left running. There was a long lineup for taxis here as well. I waited in a local restaurant because it was warm, thinking about my options.
As luck turned out, I got call from a friend who had a car. He offered me a ride and I happily accepted. I finally arrived at my apartment at one a.m, eleven hours after the earthquake.
I opened the door. I completely expected my apartment to be a shambles. To my surprise it wasn’t. It was just as I left it with shirts left hanging precariously from door frames. The only thing that was broken was a single pudding bowl, split in two from falling from the counter. I took a picture of it, to remind myself how lucky I was.
I thought it might also be interesting to take a glimpse of the city. I walked out onto my balcony. Below was a steady swarm of people walking eastwards away from Tokyo. It was astounding to see so many people at one a.m., trying to make it home so many kilometers away. With no transportation, the commuters were reduced to making a mass exodus, some walking all night in the cold. I slept in my own bed that night, that made me particularly lucky as well.
The next few days were chaos to say the least. The rolling blackouts, the closed train lines, the news about the true extent of tge tsunami devastation trickling in, and of course, the growing emergency at the Fukushima nuclear reactors. Food and water were immediate problems as well, as we had to wait in long lines to get into supermarkets just to find out there was nothing inside. Eggs, milk, bottled water, bread, rice, toilet paper, instant noodles, pasta, pasta sauces, were all extremely hard to come by. Whatever we found we were lucky to get, and this shortage took a couple of weeks to sort itself out.
As a foreigner, there was a tremendous pressure to leave. Some embassies down right recommended abandoning ship, and many, many of us foreigners did. I remember the numerous conversations with friends who were fleeing, not understanding why I had chosen to stay, mocking that decision and talking to me like I had chosen death with a sarcastic “good luck, you’ll need it”. Given the state of the western media at that time, with it declaring Japan as a whole an uninhabitable radioactive disaster zone didn’t help things too much. Instead, I decided to give my trust to the Japanese media and followed their instructions.
Reflecting on all this a year later, it still amazes me how life changes in a single day. And I had it really good. Just a couple hundred km away entire towns were washed away, thousands of people disappeared into the ocean, and thousands more found themselves without homes. Thousands more lived with radiation, though not immediately fatal, only time will tell what long-lasting effects on health will be had. I am enormously grateful for my good fortune. And although some problems still continue — the city where I live is a radioactive hotspot, and every day there are still reminders of the tsunami that claimed so many.
The changes in my life were really just inconveniences. They still talk about the big earthquake that they expect to hit Tokyo; an estimate quoted today that there’s a 70% chance of it happening in the next four years. So no one knows what happens next. But I will never forget that day, when the world shook so violently beneath my feet.

![[the last SL strip featuring the original thin H line artists]](http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lyctc8n2MW1ro5gc0o1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1327580953&Signature=Po%2F6WPDvZ8xmADWWTLby4Yn516c%3D)
![[The first strip.]](http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lyct1xbuf61ro5gc0o1_1280.jpg?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1327580575&Signature=MqcroiCPbEJZLoee8NJ%2F85m38Dw%3D)
![[A sample page from my Queen of Clubs submission]](http://s3.amazonaws.com/data.tumblr.com/tumblr_lycsmdxJXA1ro5gc0o1_1280.gif?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAJ6IHWSU3BX3X7X3Q&Expires=1327580036&Signature=9rFhM0ZwvrE9ry0QSwe9BSCX%2F4I%3D)